Stecchino
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Last night I went to Stecchino, which is located at 765 9th Ave in Hell’s Kitchen. While their website says that they are a wine bar and bistro, the place only advertises that it’s a bistro on its awning. It was also pretty empty when I arrived, so maybe it’s not even a great bistro. But I’m not here to review the food now, am I? Unless it’s cheese
The bar smells like an old building – the old wood scent reminded me of the house my grandparents used to live in. The space was decorated in an understated, masculine way. If the place was a little smaller and they served only scotch, it could pass for a cigar lounge. The brick wall, tin ceiling, and beige puckered leather benches and dark mahogany wood of the booths gave it a refined cozy feel.
Wines at Stecchino are priced between $9 and $15 and bottles were priced up to $95. Not too shabby. They also have a happy hour from 4 to 7 and another one from 11pm to 1am. Select wines are $5, although I didn’t see a list showing which wines these were. I ordered the 2007 Tinto Portuguese because I don’t often see Portuguese wines on a menu and decided to take advantage of the opportunity. However, the waitress came back and told me that they were out of the wine and suggested that I order the 2009 Bagordi Cosecha Rioja. Being a Rioja fan, I agreed, although I wanted to write about something new for my dear readers. One thing that stood out to me on the menu was that they had a 2010 Cotes du Rhone that was labeled “Grand Reserve”. For us wine nerds, this is cringe worthy. Each country has its own labeling laws that require wine producers to meet certain standards. For example, in order for a wine from Spain to have the term “Gran Reserva” on its label, the wine needs to be aged for two years in oak barrels, and three years in the bottle before it is released. In France, the labeling terms for quality wine are as follows: Villages, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru with slight variations depending on the region of the vineyard. There is no such thing as a “Grand Reserve” French wine and that kind of labeling is somehow slapped onto a wine in order for it to sound more special and therefore generate more sales. I would never, ever, ever select this wine to serve in a wine bar.
Most of the wines were from Europe and there were a couple from California and Oregon. The menu briefly describes the flavors of each wine, which is helpful if you’re uncertain of the style of the wine. My glass of Rioja was described as medium bodied, bramble fruits, hints of oak, and a smooth finish. Sounds decent. It was quite oaky on the nose and smelled of chocolate and cedar. It was a little harsh on the acidity, but the tannins were smooth and it tasted like bramble fruits. Just kidding, I have no idea what a bramble fruit is! What I can tell you though is that it had a slightly tart character to it and it tasted like cranberry or an under ripe black cherry. It actually wasn’t as bad as I was expecting, given the offensive labeling of that French wine. Sorry, I know I’m a wine nerd.
Stecchino was kind of what I was expecting from a wine bar in the heart of Hell’s Kitchen. It wasn’t very wine-focused and it could use a little more life from the staff. The service was good, but not very outgoing, which I always like because it makes you more comfortable asking for suggestions. It wasn’t a bad experience, but it wasn’t anything I would rave about either. In other words….meh! I give Stecchino a rating of 3 out of 5 glasses.
"Hell's Kitchen Bistro" It's a little blurry, but noooooo you're a wine bar too!
Take away the weird Christmas lights and it's a cool looking place
My camera really couldn't do the place justice, so I pulled this from Stecchino's website
My glass of Rioja